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This short essay is the English version of a piece I first published in Spanish on my Substack, where I write about Latin America, critical theory and the politics of everyday life. It is part travelogue, part political reflection, written in the weeks I was recovering from dengue after returning from Ecuador in July 2025. The original Spanish text...

In a matter of months, the landscape of Ecuadorian migration has been upended. The Darién Gap, the treacherous jungle crossing once crowded with thousands of Ecuadorians risking everything to reach the United States, now sits eerily quiet. In early 2025, Ecuadorians have nearly vanished from that route. This is not merely a question of policy; it...

I boarded what I thought was the fastest train to a panel titled The End of Democracy: Latin American Perspectives on a Global Crisis. Only after admiring the calm Dutch polder rolling past did I realise the carriage was speeding in the opposite direction. A sudden leap onto the platform, an overpriced Uber, and a sheepish return later,...